It was Miss K who found them. “I know you don’t believe me”
she lectured, “but it’s this ordinary looking puesto in front of the
Social Security office. They’re tiny stuffed jalapeños in nogada, but they don’t burn your mouth out. I've never seen anything like them.”
They were the best kept secret of the Condesa until Jim Johnston put them in the next edition of his
book, “Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler”. I mentioned
them to Rick Bayless. He went.
Then it was B. who broke the news, tweeted and
texted all over town: “they’re gone; vanished without a trace…and no one knows
where they went”.
Such is life in the post-modern 21st century,
where tradition, history and Peggy Lee don’t count. These cultural/gastronomic
gems just up and disappear; so be it.
But the news is good. Turns out ‘Sra. Mari’ went to Morelos,
but her son has revived the stand in a different location: at the north-east
corner of Av. Insurgentes, just north of Calle Tlaxcala. Next to the Siberian
‘Empanadas Rusas’ stand (another story waiting to be written).
A mere 10 pesos buys you a miraculously low-fire roast chili
stuffed with a particularly succulent picadillo,
and cloaked in a perfect rosy cream/nut sauce. The requisite pomegranate seeds
are even sprinkled on top. Have them in a taco (into which they want to spoon
some superfluous rice – just say “no”) or on a plate, rice al lado.
And don’t miss other well-crafted guisados and/or the chile
rellenos.
Some stories have a happy ending. Or is it a beginning.
Mini Chiles en Nogada
North-east corner of Av. Insurgentes (right-hand side as you
face north), just north of Calle Tlaxcala, near the Chilpancingo metro/metrobus stop.
Open Monday through Friday morning until early afternoon – best to go early (before 2PM).
When they run out, they close up and go home.
An explanation from the author: I only write what I believe. All opinions here are educated but subjective. For the most part, I only publish reviews about places I like, and I try to be forgiving of minor faults. Mexico City is not Paris and I am not Michelin. If I don't like it I don't write about it except, in some cases where the hype or fame may merit the negative criticism. So take it all with a grain of salt. N.G.
