The Lady Vanishes : The mini chiles en nogada

It was Miss K who found them. “I know you don’t believe me” she lectured, “but it’s this ordinary looking puesto in front of the Social Security office. They’re tiny stuffed jalapeños in nogada, but they don’t burn your mouth out. I've never seen anything like them.”

They were the best kept secret of the Condesa until Jim Johnston  put them in the next edition of his book, “Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious Traveler”. I mentioned them to Rick Bayless. He went.

Then it was B. who broke the news,  tweeted and texted all over town: “they’re gone; vanished without a trace…and no one knows where they went”.

Such is life in the post-modern 21st century, where tradition, history and Peggy Lee don’t count. These cultural/gastronomic gems just up and disappear; so be it.

But the news is good. Turns out ‘Sra. Mari’ went to Morelos, but her son has revived the stand in a different location: at the north-east corner of Av. Insurgentes, just north of Calle Tlaxcala. Next to the Siberian ‘Empanadas Rusas’ stand (another story waiting to be written).

A mere 10 pesos buys you a miraculously low-fire roast chili stuffed with a particularly succulent picadillo, and cloaked in a perfect rosy cream/nut sauce. The requisite pomegranate seeds are even sprinkled on top. Have them in a taco (into which they want to spoon some superfluous rice – just say “no”) or on a plate, rice al lado.
And don’t miss other well-crafted guisados and/or the chile rellenos.

Some stories have a happy ending. Or is it a beginning.

Mini Chiles en Nogada
North-east corner of Av. Insurgentes (right-hand side as you face north), just north of Calle Tlaxcala, near the Chilpancingo metro/metrobus stop.
Open Monday through Friday morning until early afternoon – best to go early (before 2PM). When they run out, they close up and go home.

An explanation from the author: I only write what I believe. All opinions here are educated but subjective.  For the most part, I only publish reviews about places I like, and I try to be forgiving of minor faults. Mexico City is not Paris and I am not Michelin.  If I don't like it I  don't write about it except, in some cases where the hype or fame may merit the negative criticism. So take it all with a grain of salt. N.G.


  1. but that's too early for a chile nogada, even if tiny! no?

  2. No! It's NEVER too early for a chile en nogada. Here in Mexico we eat all kinds of foods for breakfast...from arrachera to tamales to...

  3. Are they served hot, or UGH! tepid? Chiles en nogada are among the few Mexican dishes I can't abide. The problem for me starts with the incongruous combination of ingrediens, all excessively rich, and compounded by a cool to luke warm serving temperature.

    Don Cuevas

  4. It used to be that Chiles en Nogada was enjoyed in September when pomegranates and walnuts came into season. Now it seems as pomegranates are available all year 'round -- what's up with that?

  5. Chiles en nogada come into being around now, mid-august. Nuez de castilla (walnuts) and pomegranates are in season from now until the end of September (the nuts, perhaps for a shorter time). Pomegranates are not widely available here all year around, although some seem to be imported from South America (I suppose, if it isn¡t China!).

    And chiles en nogada should be served room temperature; Don, if you don't like them, so be it!

  6. thanks for sharing.

  7. Would this be good for breakfast or lunch or is it a snacks by any terms?