Surf & Turf in La Condesa: Mero Toro

The Condesa has grown up. Sophisticated eating coupled with mature ambiance, once confined to the Polanco/Lomas upper crust has finally crossed the park and landed on Avenida Amsterdam in the form of an interesting new venue: Mero Toro. In their new locale Gabriela Cámara and Pablo Bueno, whose wildly successful seafood palace Contramar is on everybody’s ‘best’ list, decided to concentrate on interesting food in a comfortable environment with accessible prices.

The setting, a formerly non-descript modern storefront, makes good use of the low-ceilinged rectangular space. The floors are warm retro terrazzo and the walls have been paneled in rough-hewn wood, a common design solution elsewhere but not here in Mexico City. A large abstract panel adds a touch of vibrancy to the otherwise muted tones. Music is soft and appropriate - a rarity in this fiesta-loving town. Slow Food queen Gabriela, who was “extremely involved in every detail of the place” explains that the name comes from “Mero (the fish) and Toro (bull). It’s sort
of our version of “surf and turf” since everyone was asking whether the restaurant would also be seafood, and we wanted to make it clear that it would be different.” She goes on to theorize, “Our main interest in Mero Toro is that the food be really good; seriously good." It is. The kitchen is in the capable hands of master chef Jair Téllez, formerly of La Laja en Ensenada, who makes sure even the simplest dishes – a grilled fish or steak – are perfectly done. The small, constantly changing, unpretentious, and quirkily creative menu offers eight entradas, seven main dishes and four desserts, most for under $150 pesos. Ingredients are chosen selectively and strategically, with an eye to seasonal freshness, smart combinations and the occasional salute to cultural tradition. Gabriela and Téllez, in developing their concept try to remain true to where we are. “In many cases that brings us to Slow Food, and, of course, in most cases, to local food”, Gabriela says. “With local, however, we don’t just mean local to here -we’re not there yet-, but local to the ingredient or the place of production. For example, we have many products from Rancho Cortez, which is in the Valle de Guadalupe, close to Ensenada. That, of course, is not local to here, but it is better than most ranches in terms of how they produce and grow their stuff. The sheep and cows eat only local grasses and therefore the meat and cheese from them is way better than anything else you can find.”
Start with a mixed salad of organic greens. Simple and perfectly dressed, it is crowned with roasted beets, which draw it out of the one-dimensional. I was fascinated by the idea of a sopa rústica de alubias, erizo y aceite de chorizo (rustic soup of white beans, sea urchin and oil of chorizo). This peculiar combination turned out to be rich and appealing, warm in color, creamy in texture, the flavor vaguely smoky with a touch of sea air - brilliant. Sardina fresca rostizada, toronja, berros y salicornia (fresh roast sardine, grapefruit, watercress and salicornia, a green succulent) is an exercise in harmony, the four potentially starring ingredients sing happily together like the Ink Spots.

From the plato fuerte section comes capellini con chile y jaiba a simple dish I would try to make at home, but could not do so well. Risotto a la Mexicana con camarones is undoubtedly a nod to Gabriela’s Italian/Mexican roots and it is appropriately picante. The filete de dorado al sárten con chícharros cremosos, bok choy y límon makes lovely use of these locally grown, seasonal greens. The fish is beautifully browned, but tender and juicy, the accompaniments herbaceous and bright. The star of the show for carnivores is the costilla corta de res lentamente horneada – short ribs slowly baked. Accompanied by small roast potatoes and onions, it’s falling apart tender, the sauce full-bodied, fruity and smoky--as good as it gets.
Of the four desserts, my favorite is the pastelito de chocolate y almendra con helado de almendra tostada in which the chef brings out the best of these two classic mouthwatering delights. Worth sampling is the pannacotta de lima con mandarina y chico zapote: here, the old world happily embraces the tropical new.
A caveat: the wine list is quite expensive, with few choices for under $600; this is not a good thing.
Dinner will cost around $500 pesos, below the average of most upscale venues. Mero Toro is a welcome and much needed addition to the contemporary D.F. dining scene, and I hope its early success goes to show that we’re ready for something different.

Mero Toro
Avenida Amsterdam 204
Between Iztacihuatl & Chilpancingo, Condesa
Tel. 5564-7799
Open Tuesday through Saturday, 1:30-11:00 p.m., Sunday  1:30 - 6 p.m. (closed Monday)



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Don't miss my new blog post on HAVANA, CUBA at Good Food Planet

The Devil and the Deep Blue Sea : Contramar and El Caguamo

Mexico City is an aquatic paradise for a seafood lover like me.. How can our land-locked capital, provide this cornucopia of creatures that swim? The Mercado de Vigas, our astonishingly huge central fish market, is stocked by truckers who make the 8-hour trek daily from either coast. The gaps are filled by fresh trout and other odd aquatic creatures such as the crayfish-like acamayas from nearby mountain streams. The myriad ways Mexican cooks work magic with this oceanic bounty is nothing short of amazing. Paella-like rice dishes, spicy soups and stews, lemony cocktails, quesadillas, ceviches are but a few of the mouthwatering treats to be found.

One of my favorite places to eat seafood is the by no means undiscovered Contramar, a
chic ‘be-there-or-be-square’ hangout in Colonia Roma. They happen to serve some of the best pescados y mariscos (fish and seafood) in town .
Young owners Gabriela Cámara and Pablo Bueno opened their hangar-size space, decorated like a beach palapa, in 1998 with a simple vision: “to serve good food in a comfortable environment”. The menu has evolved over the years, and, surprisingly, while it has become a fashionable, some might say trendy, venue, the quality of the food has improved. Simple west-coast fare with an occasional European or Asian touch is offered: tostadas, ceviches, tacos, sashimis etc. Start with an order of sashimi de atún, a signature dish, the fresh, thinly sliced tuna served on a crispy tostada or a coctél de callo de hacha (scallops). The classic Spanish pulpos a la Gallega, tender morsels of octopus sautéed with garlic, olive oil and paprika is done to buttery perfection.
Also highly recommended are the soft shell crabs (when in season), sautéed in garlic and butter. Unusual tacos de charal, with tiny dried fish prepared a la mexicana as a rich taco filling, make a great accompaniment to a tequila or beer (it’s one is one of Gabriela’s favorites). But I always go for the spectacular pescado a la talla. A whole fish, whatever is freshest at the market, is splayed flat and grilled with 2 salsas–half red, half green. The recipe is Gabriela’s variation on a Guerrero classic. It is beautiful to look at, and the light, smoky salsas compliment but do not overwhelm the warm juicy fish. You order by the number of diners, and the appropriately sized fish will be served (hence the title “a la talla”: to size).
A founding member of the local Slow Food group, the vivacious Gabriela Cámara puts her money where her mouth is: Contramar quietly serves tortillas handmade from heirloom corn grown in nearby Xochimilco, as well as local, organically grown vegetables. Recognized by the Mexican government for its achievements, the restaurant was selected to represent the nation’s cuisine at Expo Zaragoza in Spain last year.

But there are days when upscale “ambiente cool” just isn’t what I’m in the mood for. So I head to the centro to the humble street stall El Caguamo which I consider one of the city’s best
places for seafood (caguamo is slang for a liter-size beer bottle). Half of Mexico City seems to agree with me, as it’s always packed (even Ms. Cámara can occasionally be seen, hiding behind a pair of dark glasses a la Lana Turner, munching on a tostada here.)
While common wisdom may tell you not to eat fish on the street, the offerings are exquisitely fresh, set on ice and behind glass--and the turnaround is swift. I have interviewed many devoted customers who swear they’ve never regretted eating here; and neither have I.
The ceviches of jaiba, pescado, calamar or pulpo, (crab, fish, squid or octopus), made with chopped tomato, chili, onion and cilantro, augmented with lime juice and olive oil, are out of this world – just the right proportion of sour/herb aroma. They can be eaten as a coctél in a glass or on a tostada. Be sure to order a caldo de camarón as an accompaniment. This rich, deep ruby-red broth is flavored with both dried and fresh shrimp and chilies; a chico, served in a cup, usually does it for me.
Filetes, boned fish filets battered and deep fried, should be hot. Make sure to order one if you see them fresh out of the oil. Also good are the empanadas de camarón, made from freshly rolled dough. I like to request mine “sin mayonesa” as otherwise they will slather mayo on – my only complaint here. This is a must-stop for aficionados of the real thing…
Don’t let the lack of a local waterfront scare you – Mexico City will not fail to satisfy “the seafood lover in you”.

Contramar
Calle Durango 200, near Plaza Cibeles, Colonia Roma
Tel. 5514-3169
Open Monday-Saturday 1 - 6:30, Sunday 1:30-6:30Reservations, only accepted before 2, are a must – it is always packed.

El Caguamo
Calle Ayuntamiento, near López, Centro
Open Monday - Saturday, approximately 11AM - 6 PM

This article has previously been published in The News; photos are by Rodrigo Oropeza

The Lowly Tortilla

The tortilla is the soul of Mexico. Whenever I arrive back in home after a trip abroad, the first thing I long for is the fragrant aroma of freshly made tortillas. According to culinary historian José Iturriaga, it is the only pre-conquest food still eaten in unadulterated form today--all other dishes are a fusion of outside ingredients and cooking techniques.
The tortilla, originally called by the Mexicas tlaxcalli, or “cooked thing”, is traditionally made by soaking corn in water and lime, a process called nixtamalización. Originally ground on a metate of volcanic stone and patted out by hand, nowadays most tortillas are produced by machine, but the end product is the same. Tortillas made of locally grown and prepared masa (dough) and pressed by hand are far superior to those spit out by machines. The qualities to look for in a good tortilla are elasticity (the ability to fold without breaking), aroma, and of course, taste: not too strong as to overwhelm other food flavors. Although yellow corn is more nutritious, white corn is superior in texture and flavor.
Nowadays, many tortillas in Mexico are made of factory processed corn flour from large scale industrial farms, using inferior, genetically modified varieties of corn--much of it imported from the United States. George W. Bush’s government approved legislation allowing free import of these products, underpricing Mexican farmers and threatening production of traditional criollo, or heirloom varieties of seed.
Fortunately, in Mexico City, good handmade tortillas are still available in street and indoor markets, as well as in many restaurants. When I eat in a Mexican restaurant, the first thing I try is the tortilla, and my judgment of the place goes from there. An exquisitely flavorful tortilla, exuding an earthy bouquet of corn with a residue of smoky aroma from the comal (griddle) where it was roasted and a slightly elastic texture, is what I look for. Like bread in France, a well-made tortilla is a sign of good things to come.
In el DF, here are a few of my favorite places to get extraordinary, hand -made tortillas:

El Bajío
Avenida Cuitláhuac 2709, Colonia Obrera Popular
Metro: Cuitláhuac
Tel. 5234-3763.
Open Monday - Friday 10 AM - 6:30 PM,
Saturday, Sunday 9 AM - 6:30 PM
www.carnitaselbajio.com.mx

Branches:
Parque Delta Mall, Av. Cuauhtémoc 462,
Colonia Narvarte (not on map)
Tel. 5538-1188
Open Daily 8 AM-8 PM

Alejandro Dumas 7, Colonia Polanco
Tel. 5281-8245
Open daily 8 AM -11 PM

Reforma 222
Paseo de la Reforma at Insurgentes, Colonia Juarez
Open daily 8 AM -11 PM

Chef Carmen Titita, author of several cookbooks, is a big name in the Mexico City culinary scene. Her original restaurant is popular with families, especially on weekends. The food is traditional, with interesting choices: try the duck in black mole and the chongos (a weirdly wonderful curdled milk dish) for dessert. Recently, two branches of El Bajío have opened, one at Parque Delta, a sleek shopping center; it is more accessible to the Centro, but lacks the ambience of the original location. The branches in Polanco and Reforma are open at night. The menu in all four locations is the same, and the tortillas are memorably meaty and smoky.

Contramar
Calle Durango 200, near Plaza Cibeles,
Colonia Roma
Metro: Insurgentes
Tel. 5514-3169
Open Monday-Saturday 1 - 6:30, Sunday 1:30 - 6:30

This fashionable spot is one of the best seafood restaurants in town. The large open room, simply but creatively decorated, has a bright, Pacific-coast beach atmosphere. The menu is pure Baja: tuna sashimi and pescado a la talla, (a whole open fish grilled with 2 salsas–half red, half green) - are outstanding. Vivacious owner Gabriela Cámara, who is active in Slow Food International, serves tortillas, made in-house from organic corn grown in Xochimilco, right in the Distrito Federal.

Sra. Victoria, at the Tuesday tianguis in La Condesa, sitting on the sidewalk on calle Pachuca brings in amazing handmade blue and yllow tortillas from the state of Mexico and selles them by the dozen. If you can't get there, a lady in the Medellin market in la Roma, accros from La Morenita, the seafood restaurant, has them everyday, and sells salsas as well.

Most markets, Coyoacán, San Angel, Jamaica, Merced etc. and tianguis (street markets) such as those in Condesa, Roma and Polanco, include people who sell handmade tortillas out of baskets. Keep your eyes peeled.