Backyard BBQ: Touring the world's best venue for barbacoa

The winner

As previously reported, ‘The World’s Seven Tastiest Fast Feasts Awards’ were revealed at a gala event in April. Chowzter, dedicated to promoting ‘traditional fast food’ was the proud sponsor. And out of five nominations for best taco in the world the prize went to Barbacoa Santiago in Querétaro. The tacos at Santiago, a roadside restaurant in the hands of the same family, originally from the state of Hidalgo, are legendary. Wrapped in maguey leaves and pit-cooked overnight over wood, the fragrant meat is served on freshly made blue or yellow tortillas augmented with hand-ground roast chile salsa that would bring a tear to the eye of the most hardened charro.

Accepting the award

As Chowzter’s Mexico City representative, I was charged with delivering the trophy, which was gratefully accepted by members of the Santiago family. After being fed everything on the menu, which includes several manifestations of their eponymous main dish, from tender 'lomo' to crispy refried bits, I was led on a “backstage tour”, apparently a privilege rarely granted and never before to a member of the press: even a Televisa crew was refused entry. Santiago's premises are gargantuan; everything, from tortillas to salsas are made in-house by dozens of busy cooks. Ten to fifteen  healthy, locally raised sheep are sacrificed, Abraham-like, daily. They are hung to dry, then roasted between layers of maguey leaves. Their earthen pit wood-fueled ovens are located in Dante-esque smoke-blackened oven rooms. This traditional method of cooking, similar to the 'pib' of the Mayan Yucatán, is little changed since pre-hispanic times.

Blue corn tortillas, the masa prepared by the 'nixtamalization' process, are hand pressed

Prepared sheep are briefly hung to cure

'Leña' and maguey leaves ready for the ovens

Meat is roasted in a pit dug into the earth, fueled by wood and covered in 'pencas' of maguey, the plant from which mezcal is produced

bamboo poles support roasted meat

Meat is transferred to wooden boxes, leaves and all, and prepared for tacos

At the table; two salsas, limes, onion and coarse salt

Barbacoa Santiago is located on the Carretera Mexico-Querétaro, km 152.1, Palmillas, San Juan del Río, Querétaro, about 2 hours north of Mexico City, and about 1 1/2 hours south of San Miguel de Allende. Open every day until around 7.

In El D.F., fine barbacoa can be sampled at La Oveja Negra in Santa Maria la Ribera, and at El Hidalguense, Campeche 155, Colonia Roma, open Friday - Sunday only. It is also available at markets and tianguis: particularly good is that served in Polanco's Saturday market and la Condesa's Tuesday tianguis. 

A note to my readers: See a fine interview with the author in this month's Time Out Mexico

And the winner is: Queretaro barbacoa named “Best Taco in the World” at London gala

Oprime aqui ara leer Este artículo en español 

“The envelope please…”
On a crisp, cool evening in London recently ‘The World’s Seven Tastiest Fast Feasts Awards’ were revealed at a gala event. Chowzter, a web site and app dedicated to promoting ‘traditional fast food’ was the proud sponsor. The occasion was held as a provocative flipside to the glitzy World’s 50 Best Restaurants ceremony being held the next night, to highlight ‘low-end’ culinary treasures. Leading global food bloggers, top chefs and food connoisseurs gathered for the first-ever awards ceremony at a trendy London club, the Village Underground. British comedian Alexander Armstrong buoyantly hosted the casual awards gala celebrating the tastiest dishes in seven categories: sandwich, sausage, pizza, curry, burger, fried chicken and taco. Chowzter’s rankings were based on the nominations of a team of more than fifty street food experts from around the world.

English pizza wins over Italian!
A local English pizza, the margherita from Story Deli, won first prize as ‘world’s tastiest fast feast’, provoking many Italians in attendance.
“Nobody can beat the Italians for making amazing pizzas that build on, and respect, centuries of tradition,” Chowzter founder Jeffrey Merrihue said in an interview. “But Story has taken that tradition and turned it on its head, creating a pizza that combines great flavors with an unusual texture.”

Fezes off…
While the evening focused on highlighting delicious dishes from across the globe, the gala also recognized one individual passionate about her work and eager to contribute to the food-blogging industry.  Istanbul’s food storyteller and photographer Tuba Satan was honored with the Chief Chowzter Outstanding Contribution Award.  She told us: “Food is not always eaten in the best places, but this is real food, for real people; it’s accessible and local and it’s important to get the word out.”

Chef Martín Morales, Nicholas Gilman and comedian Alexander Armstrong

A taco takes it
And out of five nominations for best taco in the world (three of them non-Mexican!) the prize went to Barbacoa Santiago in Querétaro. The tacos at Santiago are beyond legendary with folks who make the pilgrimage just for the experience. Wrapped in maguey leaves and pit-cooked overnight over wood, the fragrant meat is served on freshly made corn tortillas augmented with hand-ground roast chile salsa that would bring a tear to the eye of the most hardened charro.

Keep cool and collect
The award was presented by Martín Morales of London’s Ceviche Restaurant and accepted by Good Food in Mexico City’s own Nicholas Gilman, who flew in for the occasion to represent his adopted country. And when the trophy arrives a ceremony will be held and the deserving winners will be lauded. ¡Que Viva México! 

Barbacoa Santiago, Carretera Mexico-Querétaro 152.1, Palmillas, San Juan del Río, Querétaro