I’ve never been a fan of the new-fangled; I resisted CDs,
cell phones, even computers, for years. And that goes for food as well. I’ve
been cynically sampling ‘upscale’ Mexican cuisine for decades, ever since I
hung at El Olivo, Roberto Santibanez’
long defunct hipster spot of the ‘80’s (where, no doubt, more was snorted in
the WC than consumed at table) and the long-running La
Tecla started experimenting with such dubious nouvelle dishes as pasta with
mole and deconstructed chiles en nogada.
Then a few Polanco chefs (you know who I mean) came along
and did away with tradition altogether, going for global gastro-trends. Flor de
calabaza became a foam. Unspeakble things appeared in sorbets and sauces. That’s
why I celebrate what appears to be a new trend: a tweaked return to basics, or
‘grandma with a twist'. Pretention is exchanged for simple updating of the
tried and true. New places at every step of the scale, are opening offering
good Mexican food to 21st century diners used to clean preparation
and pretty presentation. Cases in point at either end of the fancy spectrum: Limosneros and Fonda Kelly, which I
recently lauded.
Aztec Cravings: El Parnita
The name of this unassuming antojería means ‘pal’ or friend’.
They’ve been dishing out comida corrida for over thirty years, but just
recently hit the charts--it’s where the arts and media crowd meet for lunch in
uber-chic Colonia Roma.
The large renovated space recalls an ordinary lunch spot, blaring
TVs and all – until one realizes that those ordinarily intrusive boob tubes
show photos of works of art instead of Televisa toons. Ambience is likewise
downplayed in a hip Paris bistro sort of way – umbrella-topped tables spill out
onto the street and jazz softly plays.
Best of all is the food. It’s simple, but the flavors are
vibrant.
Antojitos (corn-based
snacks) rule. The marvelous tacos
viajeros, tender, tangy pork served with red onions and an array of smoky
and spiky sauces, are wrapped in house-made tortillas.
The fried shrimp taco is also a good choice, the fresh crispy
sea creature served with greens—a crunch-fest. Another fine oceanic option is
the ceviche, lightly marinated chunks of scallop and fish served with warm
tostadas. Parnita’s variation on the Jalisco classic torta ahogada (drowned torta) is the best we’ve sampled in the
city, a perfect balance of soft/crunchy texture and umami laden filling – with
a perfect whallop of chili. Parnita is a friendly place and prices are friendly as well – lunch will
run 100-150 pesos, if you behave yourself.
El Parnita
Avenida Yucatán 84, (Near the corner of Yucatán and Monterrey)
Tel. 5264 7551
Avenida Yucatán 84, (Near the corner of Yucatán and Monterrey)
Tel. 5264 7551
Open Tuesday – Sunday, 1:30-6pm
Gente ‘Nice’: Dulcinea
Chef Lucy Acuña, who runs the show, studied at New York’s
Culinary Institute of America. Chef Lucy
acknowledges tradition, but gently pokes at it, and gussies it up a bit.
Her simple sopa de
tortilla, for example, contains the usual garnishes of fried tortilla
strips, roast chilies and avocado, but all served dry—the brick-red broth is poured
at table over the garnishes, French bistro style. The crema de cilantro, pretty as a Seurat landscape, is lightly perfumed
with avocado leaves.
Aguas de frutas
are served in homey white enamel pitchers that seem straight from the
marché de puces –
a nice touch.
Several antojitos
are offered. Sopes de arrachera is
the most traditional – corn masa shells, fresh and crisp/tender, the meat
buttery. Tiradito de pulpo blends thin
slices of buttery octopus with a chili/tomato glaze, served over a puree of celery
with a whisper of ginger. It’s both light and hardy—a winner.
A notable main dish is the arrachera, offered with mole
de jamaica, a light, sweet-sour sauce. Pollito
de leche (aka Cornish hen) is roasted and served with fruity tamarindo or jamaica sauces.
Desserts are predictable but satisfying: flan, crepes, chocolate mousse.
Dulcinea’s prices reflect its surroundings (it’s right
around the corner from the Café Snob - I'm not making this up)– you’ll spend at least $250 pesos
per person for a light lunch, without drinks. But the quality is good—you’ll
get what you pay for and leave happy.
Dulcinea
Oscar Wilde 29, Polanco
Tel. 5280 8909
