Semana Santa, the week leading up to Easter Sunday, is my favorite time of year in Mexico City. Why? Because so many people leave. God help those who decide to join the masses heading for Acapulco, Cancun or San Miguel de Allende!
During this week, our bulging metropolis, usually ruled by automobiles and their murderous drivers, turns into a peaceful, laid-back hinterland. The former 'Paris of the new world' c. 1960 returns. Empty streets, clean air--at least in the neighborhoods of those who can afford to escape (the Centro Histórico retains its usual mad-cap bee-hive activity).
So I often choose to stay put and enjoy what becomes 'my' city. While some people are lucky enought to have the whole week off, most depart starting on Wednesday, and things get quieter and quieter, grinding to a halt on Easter Sunday. You'll find no parades bonnets or bunnies here, just church.
One problem facing us remaining residents and visiting food-ivores is where to eat. I checked up on some of the high-end houses as well as my favorite joints. I was not surprised to find that no information is offered on any of the restaurant's websites (save that of Pujol) vis a vis holiday hours. So I called as many as I could. Much to my consternation several venues didn't even know yet; I was told to call later in the week, when they may have decided whether to stay open or not. There seem to be no rules: some places close for an extended period, some not at all. With that in mind, I present my findings; take them with a grain of salt, and be sure to call before you go. Semana Santa this year starts Monday, April 2nd, and ends Sunday, April 8.
Asian Bay - open through Sunday from 1PM on
Astrid & Gaston – open through Easter Sunday
Azul (Condesa & Histórico) - open through Easter Sunday
El Bajio - Closed Thursday - Sunday
Biko -open as usual
El Cardenal - open as usual
D.O. - open as usual
Dulce Patria – closed from Monday to Sunday
Izote –Thursday to Saturday closed, Sunday possibly open, to be confirmed
Jaso - Closed all week
Maximo Bistro - Closed for two weeks
Mero Toro - Open as usual
Oca - Undecided - call ahead
Osteria 8 – Open Tuesday, Wednesday, closed Thursday-Sunday
Paxia - Open as usual
Pujol - Open as usual
La Rauxa d'en Quim Jardí - open as usual
Rosetta - Closed Thursday, Friday Saturday, Sunday
Sobrinos, Padrinos, Primos- Open as usual
Taberna de Leon – Open, but only for comida
El Tajin - Open all week
Tezka- Undecided; call ahead