Why is the combination of a beautiful view and decent food so hard to find? Too often I’ve encountered lousy grub while enjoying some of the world’s most spectacular vistas, from the rooftops of Paris to the docks of Singapore. The D.F.’s potential best, the bar/restaurant in the Torre Latinamericana, is a disaster of vulgar music and overpriced, mediocre food. I am pleased therefore, to have found an exception, so obvious, had it been a dog it would’ve bit me. Situated atop a Deco edifice in the heart of Mexico City’s centro histórico, Don Toribio, open for several years now, overlooks the Alameda. The view of the Palacio de Bellas Artes is stunning. And on a recent crystal clear October afternoon I could make out the snow-dusted mountains up north.
Enter through a tacky mini-mall and take the elevator on the right to the 5th floor. Doors open to a broad terrace, a nicely appointed space with white tablecloths and plain, modern furniture —all very appealing. Several tables front the outdoor terrace; others are glassed in with wrap-around vistas.
The simple, wisely limited menu is Argentine – Mexican. Don Toribio bills itself as a parilla (grill) and grilled meat such as arrachera (skirt steak) is excellent. An order of nicely appointed mixed sopes or empanadas will make good starters to share. Main dishes –hearty salads or grilled meats are accompanied by soup of the day – the sopa de tortilla is exemplary. Avoid the complicated “a las finas hierbas”) and stick to the basic (“a las brasas”).
The best news of all is that the prices are more than reasonable. A comida can be had for under $100. When has a nice glass of Argentine wine cost $40 in recent years?
Breakfast is offered daily, and there is night-time service Thursday and Friday.
Juarez 30, 5th floor
Open Monday, Tuesday , Wednesday, Saturday & Sunday, 8 a.m.-7 p.m.
Thursday, Friday until 11
Tel. 5518 - 7595