A Culinary stroll in the Centro Histórico

As readers of my columns know, one of my favorite places to shop is the Mercado San Juan, south of the Alameda. I haunt its inspiring aisles on a weekly basis. After innumerable trips from the nearest metro stop, Salto de Agua, I’ve sampled a number of eateries that are clustered together near the market. A stroll along Calle López, which runs north from Arcos de Belén is like leafing through one of Diana Kennedy’s cookbooks. Within 4 short blocks you can fill up on a variety of Mexican antojitos or snacks – but don’t let that word fool you – there’s a lot of hearty fare to be found.
Start right at the north west corner of Arcos de Belén; amidst the cacophony of DVD vendors is a quiet little juice stand where for a mere 6 pesos a half liter of fresh-squeezed orange juice is waiting for you. Across Lopéz is the entrance to the Mercado San Juan de los Arcos de Belén. This wonderful and very traditional market is not to be confused the San Juan market mentioned above, which is a few blocks away. It’s a great place for a quick comida. The choices are varied enough that your tour could end here. Birria y Flautas de barbacoa, the first stand as you enter on the left specializes in lamb filled flautas, as well as tacos of birria, which also uses lamb that has been marinated and cooked in a rich chili sauce.
Walk further down this same aisle; on the left you will arrive at the aptly named La Olla de Abundancia, recognizable by its red counters. They serve just about every Mexican classic and their 35 peso comida corrida (full lunch) is indeed abundant. I like the enchiladas verdes, but you never know what will be on their extensive menu.
Across the same aisle on the right is a small but equally abundant (but nameless) Tostadas stand. There are at least half a dozen toppings to choose from, which are heaped onto a crispy fried tortilla. Wash them down with an agua fresca (fresh fruit drink) from the stand next door – they have an impressive selection.
Carnitas El Kioskito, at the corner of c/Delicias (as you exit and turn right from the market) is a branch of a beloved institution known for hardy Michoacán-style carnitas. I always order maciza – solid meat - it’s less fatty. This place is always busy with local workers—one of the sure signs of a good taco stand.
Next you’ll see Taquería Cocula (no. 137), a small, friendly fonda that does flavorful tacos of costilla (pork rib) with a selection of beautiful sauces. Their icy horchata goes well with everything.
Cochinita Pibil XEW (no. 107) is another hole-in-the-wall offering the spicy chilied pork specialty of the Yucatan. It’s named after the nearby radio station XEW, where just about every famous Mexican singer of the 20th century was once heard.
La Gran Cocina Mi Fonda, (no.101) is my favorite place of all on Calle López. This simple time-warp fonda is run by a Spanish exile. A host of regular customers (who are often asked to share a table) pack the place daily to enjoy home-cooked food, Spanish-style with a Mexican touch. Although paella is the specialty of the house, I prefer the roast chicken en su jugo and the Madrid-style potaje de lentejas, a lentil soup flavored with fragrant chorizo.

For something a little lighter, El Paisa, (no.94, across the street), serves chicken soup like your grandmother might have made – I’ll bet she didn’t make hand-made tortillas to go with it, though.
Tacos de Cabeza “Los Gueros” is at no. 93 and is usually crowded. For the more adventurous, try a couple of tacos of oven roasted sheep head here. They’re better than they sound.
Taquería Gonzalez is at the corner of Vizcainas on the right. “Los mejores tacos del centro histórico” shrieks the sign, and apparently they’re indeed the best as there is always a huge crowd gathered at this corner. Try the longaniza, sausage that's spicy and not so fatty. You can augment your tacos with nopales, beans or various colorful salsas.
Ricos Tacos Toluca (at the corner of Puente de Paredo) is a rare taquería serving specialties associated with Toluca and Mexico state. The chorizo verde is very, very green –naturally so, they claim. It is loaded with pignole nuts and tastes a little like Italian sausage. The roast tomato and chili sauce is another winner. Also worth sampling is the cecina, a pounded salted meat.
If all the carnivorous offerings have got you down, don’t despair. Around the corner on Ayuntamiento is El Caguamo, the best seafood stand in the city, previously lauded in more than one of my columns. Four types of ceviche, fried fish filets, or a hardy seafood soup should satisfy anyone’s maritime cravings. The fish is fresh as there's always a crowd and so turnover is fast.
Finally, stop for a relaxing expresso at either Café Cordobés or Café Villarias, both traditional cafés that also sell coffee beans.
Calle López is one of the older streets in the centro – don't forget to look up at the extraordinary architecture around you. And you’ve only trod the first four blocks…

This article was previously published in The News Mexico City