Just Friends : L’Entre Potes

What’s new in Colonia Roma?  You could run yourself ragged trying to keep up with the bars, shops, restaurants and antros that are popping up like mushrooms.

Álvaro Obregón is the main drag here, where you’ll find some of the bigger, glitzier places.  But as rents have risen, Roma’s side streets are attracting creative, young entrepreneurs with smaller budgets.   Wandering the residential streets a few blocks from the hubbub, I made my latest discovery, L’Entre Potes.

Lovers of Paris (who isn’t?) will adore this little sidewalk bistro, which opened its doors earlier this year.  L’Entre Potes, which translates as ‘amongst friends’, is a collaboration of three native Parisians. A lunch joint by day, bar by night, the good food and wine here will transport you to the City of Lights.

Chef Frederique turns out multi-culti comfort food in his compact open kitchen.  Friends Morgan and Claire run the show outside.

Considering the quality, the copious and hearty menu du jour is a bargain at 90 pesos ($130 with a glass of house wine).  On my first visit I was impressed with a gazpacho that would have pleased any Spaniard, fragrant with good olive oil.  It was followed by a textbook-perfect carne de ternera c/salsa Roquefort.  This bistro classic comprised a generous portion of tender, seared beef bathed in a light Roquefort sauce served with golden pommes frites—the best fries I’ve had in Mexico.  I cleaned my plate with an exceptional baguette, chewy and flavorful.

Another day blanquette de  veau, the creamy veal and mushroom stew was served with a side of cous cous. Salads, such as an ersatz niçoise, are carefully arranged and pretty, although at times overdressed and too vinegary.  

Desserts are tried and true: traditional clafoutis , tiramisu, tarte tatin or crème brulée.

An option for non-meat eaters was the gratin de acelgas & espinacas—vegetables as the French do them—butter, cream and cheese (viva Julia!). Gratins are the specialty of the house, and the potatoes dauphinoise are divine.  But the menu is not strictly French--an occasional curry or pasta might make an appearance.

 

Evenings get busy here—the place is small and fills up.  Tapas, such as nicely chosen cheese or charcuterie plates, are proffered. A few Spanish tapas classics  like croquetas, tortilla española and the Catalan  pan tomate recall the chef’s stint in Barcelona. Décor is simple, a clean white bar with seating for 5 or 6, several rustic wood tables and the requisite patterned cement-tile floor make for tasteful, cheery dining.  And if weather permits, there is outdoor seating as well.

L’Entre Potes is a welcome addition to the neighborhood, a sophisticated lunch option and a pleasant, adult cocktail venue. 

L’Entre Potes

Orizaba 167 (between San Luís Potosí and Querétaro)

Tel. 5264 1561

Open Monday 2-5:30, Tuesday-Saturday 2-2AM, closed Sunday

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Dinner at Eight: Osteria 8

I was skeptical, even though a French friend had highly recommended the place. “This little hole in the wall is GOOD?” I thought as we sat down at one of the eight little tables. But this particular lady, Françoise, had owned a restaurant in Paris, so I figured if she said “c’est bon” I'd try it.

Little did I imagine the gem I would find. No bigger or fancier than the fonda it undoubtedly replaced, this mini-trattoría and pizzeria does some of the best Italian this side of the Lido. Owner Stephan Gialleonardo hails from that bastion of great Italian cooking--the Bronx. “I learned from my grandfather, a Napolitano who worked as chef on a depression-era gambling boat,” he explains. “Those floating casinos were owned by some rather discerning eaters.” he adds. The chef, who later studied at New York’s French Culinary Institute, decided to open his own place. He and his wife Patricia Ramirez inaugurated Osteria 8 two years ago and it has been a well-kept secret amongst savvy Condechis ever since.

Raw ingredients are fresh, seasonal and, in many cases organic and local. Pasta is house-made. A smartly limited menu of regional standards includes six appetizers (e.g., fried calamares and several salads), five pastas--none of them clichés--and a risotto ‘de chef’. There are specials, such as the knockout ‘ensalada romana’, soon to appear on the regular menu by popular demand. ‘Lechuga romana’ is iceberg lettuce and I admire a chef who’s not afraid of it. Here the old steakhouse special has been given a touch of class – a perfect wedge is swathed in a light gorgonzola sauce, then accessorized with chopped tomato, red onion and bacon – a Park Avenue debutante never looked so pretty. Chef Gialleonardo takes advantage of what’s in the market: “I love this season –especially the wild mushrooms, which right now (September) are particularly good” he says, disappearing into the tiny kitchen to prepare a spectacular tagliatelle with chantarelles. The lighter-than-angel’s-wings pasta is tossed with delicate slivers of golden mushrooms and bits of guanciale (a type of unsmoked bacon), good olive oil and parmesan. Divine. A home-made sausage I sampled was just as good. “The sausage recipe was my grandfather’s,” the chef explains. “But it took a lot of experiments to get it just right”. Then arrives what is just about the prettiest pizza I’ve seen outside Fordham Road – or Naples. Patricia does the pizzas. “My wife’s a kick-ass pizza-maker”, the chef assures me. She is indeed: the tomato-based mushroom and guanciale number I order is textbook-perfect. I’m an old New Yorker: when it comes to pizza, you CAN be too rich and too thin. This one has chutzpah, but is delicate and subtle at the same time.

Desserts are rich, dairy-based affairs your nonna would fatten you up with: panna cotta, crème brulée, gelato, all done correctly.
House wine is decent and its price customer-friendly. Service is swift and efficient. Prices may seem on the steep side for such an apparently humble place ($200-300 per person), but it’s worth every peso.
Plans to open a larger space in the neighborhood are underway. But meanwhile, we’ll gladly pack into this little gem of an Italo-hole-in-the-wall. Cin cin & buona provata!

Osteria 8
Sinaloa 252, (near Av. Veracruz) on the edge of Colonias Roma & Condesa
Tel. 5212-2008
Open Tuesday- Saturday 1:30 - 11 p.m., Sunday until 8, closed Mondays

A note to my readers: Good Food in Mexico City has been chosen by Saveur Magazine as one of the top Global food blogs! See: http://www.saveur.com/article/Kitchen/SAVEURs-Favorite-Global-Food-Blogs

Blowing Kisses – El Beso Huasteco

The renaissance of the once genteel but down-on-its-heels Colonia Roma doesn’t cease to astound. New restaurants are popping up like autumn chantarelles in the Auvergne, so fast I can’t keep up with them. The latest at the top of my pile of business cards is El Beso Huasteco, a friendly and pleasingly unpretentious place on Calle Córdoba. The young owners have refurbished a Porfiriato mansion with a mish-mash of early 20th century splendor, patterned mosaic floors, ornate cornices and all. They’ve filled it with colorful for-sale art and tchotchkes, which give it a festive air. The sunny rooms open to a central patio full of plants and buena onda (good vibes).

The menu proffers Mexican lunchtime comfort foods: Antojitos (corn-based dishes) are the order of the day here. Many recipes come from the Huasteca region in north-eastern Mexico, hence the restaurant’s name. Chef and partner Alfonso Girón emerged from his kitchen one recent sunny afternoon for a brief interview. He explained that he “…offers dishes people think of as common or ‘street foods’, keeping prices accessible. We don’t try to re-invent or deconstruct, but simply to present them in an attractive way, respecting Mexican tradition”. There’s nothing better than a classic when it's well made. “No foams or drizzles here”, he chuckles.
My favorite appetizer is ‘bocoles’, a variation on the classic gordita. Here they're golden and crusty outside, steamy soft and redolent of concentrated corn inside. Filled with chilied egg, chorizo or chicken and slathered with the circus-colored salsas handily provided, Mexican botanas don’t get much better.
Classic pozole rojo is served with all the trimmings. It is textbook good: sexy rich red and just picante enough. The less often seen green pozole is subtle, the pork broth enhanced by nutty pumpkin seed used as a thickener.
The selection of seldom seen tamales is intriguing: adobo de puerco is one of my favorites.

Open day and night, El Beso Huasteco is a good option when you want something down to earth, inexpensive, but handled with care.

El Beso Huasteco
Colonia Roma
Córdoba 146 (South of Av. Alvaro Obregón)
Open:Monday- Friday 8:30AM-10PM, Saturday, 10-10. Closed Sunday
Tel. 5574 6166

A note to my readers:
See my recent report on Santa Maria la Ribera in the New York Times:
http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2011/03/06/travel/20110306-SURFACING.html?scp=2&sq=mexico%20city%20gilman&st=cse

When in Rome…Bistrot Broka

As I’ve noted on various occasions the once sleepy and apparently despoiled Colonia Roma is on the rise. It seems there is a new bar/café/restaurant/gallery or trendy boutique on every block. It’s OK with me: if the residents can’t keep the trash off the streets and their homes in decent repair maybe some new energy is needed. Here, I’m all for gentrification, if that’s what you want to call it. I’m not worried about the New York-style throw-the-old-lady-out-on-the-street, turn-the pharmacy-into-a-Starbucks phenomenon. We’re a long way from that. But give those old Grande-Dame mansions and Nouveau beauties a little respect and bring in some good food. I’ve already lauded Rosetta and Sobrinos in these columns, and now there’s Broka.

Chef Marco Margain, D.F. born and bred, has opened an intimate bistrot/bar in the downscale ‘SoAo’ (south of Alvaro Obregón) side of Roma, facing the nearly-nice Plaza Luís Cabrera. It is surrounded by several uppity but less successfully realized ventures, and near two neighborhood classics (La Embajada Jarocha and Pozolería Tizka). Broka, whose name refers to the Norteño way of saying ‘brother’, is the best thing going in the area.

I chatted with Chef Marco during a rare quiet spell– the joint jumps from morning ‘til night. The chef, who studied in Monaco and Spain, explains that he wanted to create a space honoring the true meaning of the word ‘restaurant’, that is, to ‘restore’. “I want to make food with care and love, like your mother would”, he says, adding “I want the visitor to feel at home”. Hence the one-dish menu: comida consists of an appetizer, a main dish, a dessert and a drink all for 100 pesos ($130 with wine). No choices, although special diets, such as vegetarian, will be catered to. Marco explains that his cooking “was not ‘contaminated’ by one culture”; he learned and took from many. His food is not ‘fusion’ – a dirty word these days, often implying the hapless mélange of every imaginable ingredient and cultural reference. Nor does he aspire to foamy, drizzling pretention. Dishes are simple and bright. A ‘carpaccio de mango’ turned out to be just that, simple mango slices tweaked by some gentle chile slices and mint leaves. This was followed by ‘pollo oriental’, perfectly done linguine tossed with chunks of chicken in a sweet and savory teryaki-like sauce and smartly presented with a scattering of thin spinach strips. While no particular cuisine is featured here, Italian seems to be a liet motif. The chef goes on: “Sometimes I invent dishes, but I also like to do the traditional; my sopa de lima is straight from the Yucatan. I shop in the neighborhood and buy what is inspiring and seasonal.” Creative lasagnas, Moroccan couscous, one never knows what to expect, as the menu changes daily. “We have been successful beyond my wildest expectations,” Marco muses, “and all by word of mouth; some people come several times a week”. Lunch is not all there is, however. After an early evening rest for the staff, the small space, tastefully designed in retro-wood and muted grays by www.baseporaltura.com, becomes a ‘bar de tapas’. Well-chosen and reasonably priced wines and ‘tapas’ are offered. Chef Marco elucidates: “my tapas have nothing to do with Spanish tradition other than to feature small plates of interestingly combined tastes to complement the drinks.” Plates are only 10 pesos and up to eight different combinations are offered.

Ambience is jovial but adult, music eclectic and sophisticated – jazz to soft indie rock doesn’t overwhelm. One caveat: Service, in typical Mexican tradition, is friendly but a bit over-diligent; I would like my plate to remain in front of me for more than 30 seconds in order to sop up the remains with the excellent bread. But that’s only a detail. Bistrot Broka is a welcome addition to the neighborhood and I wish them all the best.

Bistrot Broka
Zacatecas 126-B, between Orizaba and Jalapa, Colonia Roma
Tel. 4437 4285
Open Monday through Friday 2-12PM
Closed Saturday and Sunday

A Note to my readers:
Gastronomic sleuth and re-pat Lesley Téllez has opened a new food tour business, Eat Mexico, specializing in tours of ‘the real thing’….see http://www.eatmexico.com/ for more information.

Nearly perfect – Rosetta

I’m not one for hyperbole – I save the ‘superbs’, ‘ and ‘fabulous’s’ and ‘legendary’s’ for those who deserve them. I would direct all three words to singers Sarah Vaughan or Maria Callas. Or to a little restaurant I used to like in Rome. But rarely do I sing such glorious praises to anyone or anything in my hometown.

However, a new Italian restaurant has opened its heavy Porfiriato doors in the Colonia Roma and some hyperbolic declarations are waiting in the wings, because this place is good. Very good. Nearly perfect.

A lovely old mansion which had seen several previous incarnations (the last as an art gallery) has been lovingly restored by chef and owner Elena Reygadas and her husband, architect Jaime Serra. On the ground floor, tables are set in a high-ceilinged covered patio whose white walls are decorated with lightly brushed, discreet floral motifs. Furniture is country rustic, more reminiscent of Provence than Mexico – appropriate, perhaps to the Francophile culture of the era. Tables are set with vintage-looking linens. Eclectic ‘world’ music softly serenades, creating a post-modern House of Mirth ambience. “It smells like varnish and fresh baked bread”, Priscilla remarked on entering, her nose pleasantly crinkled. And it should: they bake their own breads here, and make the unusually shaped fresh pastas as well.

The smart, reasonably sized menu was designed by chef Reygadas. She trained under a bevy of multi-regional Italian chefs in, of all places, London, then traveled through the mother country itself gleaning the best recipes she could find. Offered are traditional Italian dishes, but not the ones you’re likely to see in any other restaurant outside Italy. You’ll find curious pastas like the lumpy malfatti and the little ear-shaped oricchietti. No clichés here. The chef chooses classic and traditional recipes according to what is seasonal and inspirational in the market. She brightens them up, but there is no unnecessary gussying or ‘re-inventing’. She states emphatically that her recipes are “deceptively simple”; she concentrates on using the finest temporal ingredients, and orients her menu to the climate as well. For example, as April and May being the warmest months here, she’s offering lighter, summery fare: asparagus risotto, a green legume salad. She’ll save the heavy red wine sauces and ragus for winter. Recipes are indeed simple, often containing no more than five ingredients. The trick is in the quick and expert combining and melding of these elements, which, not incidentally, are usually artisanal and of the highest quality. “It’s difficult to procure great basic materials here,” she laments. “Meat, for example, often arrives pre-cut and frozen. We look for whole animals that we can cut up ourselves so as to make stocks and sauces as well as prepare meats and fish the way I think they should be done.”

Currently, nine ‘entradas’ and nine pastas or risotti and six meat and fish dishes are offered. Standouts on my last visit were sardinas a la plancha con panzanella: ocean fresh sardines are drizzled with fruity green olive oil, sprinkled with sea salt and lightly grilled; they are served on a bed of panzanella, the classic Tuscan bread salad. This is a perfect combination, the tart cubes of vinegared bread tango with the smoky oily fish like dancers at a Milonga. A springtime salad of ejotitos y habas (baby green beans and fava beans), spruced with shavings of parmesan, was fresh and herbaceous. Pulpo laminado con aceite de olivo y limon presented thin slices of octopus lightly dressed with an excellent olive oil – something you would be happy to be served in the Veneto.

I enjoyed my orecchiette con chicharros y pancetta so much the first time, the sweet peas and smoky pancetta melding so perfectly with the little cup shaped pastas, that I considered ordering it again. But I also needed to try the malfatti (literally “badly made”) relleno de papa con pimientos al romero. These tender ravioli-like morsels were creamy rich and aromatic. And the pappardelle con hígado de pollo y salvia was perfection itself; the wide (and house made) pappardelle play host to chicken livers which are lifted out of the banal by sweet butter and perfumey sage.

From the meat and fish menu, a simple robalo a la plancha con alcachofas y arúgala was prepared as it should be, juices sealed in, augmented but not overwhelmed by the green aromatics. Less successful was the short rib con polenta rústica, whose heart-warmingly fragrant sauce was a bit too sweet, approaching the cloying. Curiously, ‘corned beef en pan campesino con pickles caseros’ closes the menu; a nod to Passover perhaps? A gift to the stray Italian Jew who happens to wander in?

Desserts are standard but well done: try the cannoli, best I've had since Little Italy, shells crunchy, inards creamy. Or better yet, are the delightful plátanos con crema de chocolate.

The best news is that prices are reasonable...many main dishes are under $150 pesos; a full meal should be under $500 per, which, given the quality, are pesos well spent. There is a good wine list with a mercifully wide range of prices, some as low as $350; the lower end selections are decent, as they should be.

It should be mentioned that the restaurant also functions as a bakery, and fine quality bread, foccacia, and pastries are on sale from 9AM on.

Few places in the ‘real’ Roma are as pretty or as good as Rosetta. It is a welcome and needed addition to the area. Buona provata!

Rosetta
Colima #166 (just east of Orizaba)
Open Monday - Saturday (closed Sunday)
Panaderia from 9 00 am
Restaurant from 2 00 pm - 11 00 pm
Reservationes: 5533 7804

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Delightful, Delicious, DELIRIO

“Cerrado por remodelación” admonished the handwritten sign pasted to the shuttered door of chef/TV diva Monica Patiño’s N.Y./Parisian style deli, Delirio. We D.F. residents all know what that means. It’s a close cousin of the Mexican’s reluctance to ever say “no”. Will it re-open? Shall we hold our collective breaths for the dreamed of renovation? No way. But, amazingly, Ms. Patiño & Co. have taken to heart the failings of the previous incarnation of their unique gourmet emporium and re-inaugurated in a highly improved version.

The pretty retro resto/store, located on the corner of Monterrey and Alvaro Obregón in La Roma, has been opened up and fit with rustic bistro tables. The shelves have been re-stocked with products, almost all of which are artesanally produced and local. Gone are the useless Asian items, the mediocre imported oils and vinegars, the overpriced breads, the exorbitant wines. In their place are smartly packaged store-branded products, carefully selected and priced to sell. And all of them are hecho en México. Olives and olive oil from Baja California are both green and fruity. A whole shelf is dedicated to a pastel rainbow of house-made marmalades that make good gifts. Breads are varied and of excellent quality. A small, but well-chosen stock of national wines, in a range of prices from $200-400 (pesos) are worth sampling – many are unavailable elsewhere. Behind the deli counter, several salads are made fresh daily, as are pâtés and terrines, cakes and tarts. There are European-style cheeses and preserved meats, all made in central Mexico, which perhaps should be renamed “little France”. I caught the boss herself overseeing her kitchen on a recent rainy Monday. An advocate of ‘Slow’ and local foods, Patiño explained that she has decided to put her money where her mouth is. “Most of what we offer is Mexican-made and organic as well” she proudly proclaimed. Now an eat-in establishment with tables and chairs inside and out, customers can select from the charcuterie offerings, design an upscale sandwich, and grab a drink—all, usually, for under $100 pesos. Ambiance is adult – no loud music or TVs in sight – and you are surrounded by good smells, busy chefs and dappled sunlight. The ratio of price to quality is good. It’s always nice to nice to see a diva make a comeback…good luck to Monica Patiño!

Delirio de Monica Patiño

Monterrey 116 (corner Alvaro Obregón), Colonia Roma
Tel. 5584 0870
Open Tuesday-Saturday 9AM-9PM, Sunday until 7; closed Monday





A note to my readers: Hear my interview with Ana Maria Salazar from her national news show:


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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1tG0JeohsMY

The Mercado Medellin Night Market

For those visiting or living in el D.F., be sure to pass by the Mercado Medellín night market to see the Christmas market in full throttle. Stands line the east side of the market and besides offering Christmas trees feature decorations of all kinds, some from China and some handmade.
But even better, are the puestos which open after dark and remain in service until midnight. These offer a variety of antojitos from pozole to enchiladas to sopes. Jolly diners fill long picnic tables set up in the street. There is warm punch to wash it all down and flan or buñuelos with honey for dessert. A don't miss Navidad tradition in the city. The Mercado Medellín is located between Monterrey and Medellín, Coahuila and Campeche in the Colonia Roma. If you arrive by Metrobus, get off at Campeche and walk east. Nearest metro would be Chilpancingo. Open seven days a week until past midnight. The night market will be there through December 23rd.

The Fall and Rise of Rome – Two new upscale dining options in Colonia Roma

Lovely Colonia Roma, once home to La Capital’s ‘hoi polloi’ and cultural community, has seen better days. Mexico’s first planned neighborhood was designed at the turn of the 20th century on a Haussmann ideal of mixed use, i.e. middle to upper class housing. Tree-lined boulevards of single family homes interspersed with over-the-top mansions were equipped with running water, city sewer, electric and even telephone lines. Until the 1940’s, La Roma was the place to live. A cultural community thrived here well into the 1950’s – William S. Burroughs famously shot his wife in a game of William Tell gone awry at a bar here. After WWII (and the revolution), American suburban style living supplanted the baronial servant-heavy Porfiriato scene and the wealthy moved west to Polanco, or auto-and-swimming pool-friendly Las Lomas. La Roma went into a long decline. The ’85 earthquake, which hit this area heavily, put another nail in the coffin; much went to rack and ruin. Now, old homes, many in poor condition, feature auto repair shops, or other less-than-glamorous businesses, on their ground floors. Some buildings were demolished to make way for those mirrored glass behemoths that leer mockingly at the populace. Many streets, especially those south of the main drag (Av. Alvaro Obregon) are unkempt – residents toss their garbage with careless abandon, recalling Dickens’ London.
But Roma has been rising from its ashes in recent years. Savvy investors bought dirt-cheap houses and renovated them, while some of the larger mansions were turned into schools or offices or gay discos. A walk around any square block is a virtual tour of 20th century architecture, from neo-classical to high art nouveau and deco (see Jim Johnston’s Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for an excellent walking tour). Recently some of the more spectacular buildings have been meticulously restored. Others sit waiting redemption. A few mansions, windows shuttered or cloaked in flocked drapes, still seem to be homes to their original Norma Desmond-like inhabitants. A renewed appreciation of the architecture and the area’s proximity to the center and to its pricier neighbor, La Condesa, has made Roma appealing to artists and yuppies alike. Their presence has created a market for more upscale dining options. Aside from the dependably mediocre but glamorous Casa Lamm, there has been little to tempt the discerning palette west of the Insurgentes dividing line. Two new upscale establishments attempt to fill this gastronomic gap.

Sobrinos is an offshoot of the ever-popular see-and-be-seen Condesa venue Primos. Their menus are similar. While the name may conger up a Greek diner or a local mafia hangout, the food is mostly Mexican –nicely presented, satisfying. The subtitle “cocina del barrio” implies informality, a menu for sharing with friends. Divided into surf and turf, the bill of fare offers light Mexican classic antojitos such as tacos, tostadas, and seafood cocktails. A few heartier international dishes such as camarones marinera or steak tartare change with the season. My favorite from the sandwich section is the dense and savory updated Jalisco classic torta ahogada de pato. A crusty hunk of baguette is filled with duck ‘carnitas’ and bathed in a spicy red salsa – you eat it with a knife and fork. I 've noticed that ‘designer hamburgers’ have arrived in Mexico with a vengeance. The burger here was excellent. The meat is generously thick and of good quality, mercifully served on good crusty bread instead of a pillowy bun. The golden, crispy papas fritas on the side were much appreciated. The wine list is varied and prices are reasonable. Sobrinos sports the newly discovered (here in Mexico) retro bistro décor – old fashioned mosaic floors, wooden café tables with mis-matched chairs, chalkboard menus, and, thank goodness, no TVs in sight. It’s a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Update (2012): A new member of the family, Padrinos, is located in the lovely patio in the centro at Isabel la Católica 30.

Restaurante Italiano Cabiria, (Closed as of 2012) is, as my grandmother used to say, the “ritzier” of the two places. The setting is lovely but out of keeping with down-at-the-heels Plaza Luís Cabrera, a few blocks south of Alvaro Obregón. Its two story ultra-modern design features full-length glass windows overlooking the plaza, a pleasant setting for a Sunday comida. I’m not sure if Roma is ready for a Polanco-style restaurant complete with black-clad hostess and corresponding prices. The large menu is classic Italian, from the Umbria and Tuscany regions – from antipasti to pastas made in situ, rissoti, meat and fish. There are many choices, perhaps too many. I have not yet seen enough diners to justify such a large menu - they should scale down. Nevertheless, the food is well prepared, the choices intriguing. On a recent visit, a classic tortellini in brodo, followed by a duck breast in orange sauce were both well prepared and flavorful. La clásica (ensalada) Caprese, however, was a loser: mediocre mozzarella, tasteless tomatoes, and Mexican basil, which cannot be considered a substitute for the Italian. Why put it on the menu if you can’t do it right? Likewise, a meat and tomato ragú over pasta was dull. They’re trying hard, and given the paucity of really good Italian restaurants in the city, I'll give Sobrinos another chance; I wish them well.

Both places are open for dinner, a real plus for visitors to the area.

Sobrinos
Av. Alvaro Obregón 110 (at Orizaba)
Tel. 5264 7466 or 5264 6059
Average $200 per person

Cabiria
Plaza Luís Cabrera 7 (Orizaba, between Guanajuato and Zacatecas)
Tel. 5584 5051 or 5564 1146
Average $400 per person

Text and Photos © 2009 Nicholas Gilman - all rights reserved

Ay, Chihuahua! – LA TOMA DE TEQUILA

One great thing about our capital is the proliferation of restaurants specializing in regional cooking from all over the country. Almost every state is represented. While some, like Yucatan and Oaxaca are popular and easy to find, others are hidden away. So when a friend told me about the only place specializing in the regional cuisine of Chihuahua, I had to try it.
The largest state in Mexico is bordered on its northern edge by Texas and New Mexico and on the south east and west by Sonora, Sinaloa, Coahuila and Durango. It has more going for it than those pocket-size pooches and the uzi-toting drug lords reported on in the press lately. A cattle ranching state, it is home to a sizeable population of Dutch dialect speaking Mennonites. The recent film Luz Silenciosa takes place in their isolated community. Chow-wise, the arid land doesn’t produce a whole lot of fresh vegetables, so, naturally, meat’s the thing: beef and lots of it.
Wheat tortillas are as common as corn here, and tacos are often made with wheat and referred to as burritos. They have little to do with those mega-burritos from across the border, as they are simple affairs, just a tortilla holding some filling like their corn cousins. Cheese is another important product here. The Mennonites produce fresh and aged cheeses sold all over the country – their queso Chihuahua comes in several forms including the well known mild white, good for melting.
La Toma de Tequila is a homey place specializing in the cooking of Chihuahua. Owner Raul Vargas is a native chihuahuense. His wife, however, is from Jalisco, which explains the incongruous use of “Tequila” in the restaurant’s name (they really drink more beer up there).
Vargas, a gregarious gentleman who looks like a Texas cattle rancher, explained that he and his family are on a mission-- to rescue the cuisine of their home state and present it to the world. Because it is so near the American border, local traditions are disappearing faster in Chihuahua than in other parts of Mexico. Many recipes come from the Vargas’ family archives. Ingredients such as special chilies, cheese, tortillas and even mescal are imported for their authentic flavors.
Located on the second floor of an old house, the cheerful tablecloths, yellow walls, old wood floors and Norteño-themed prints are warm and comforting. The small menu features meaty dishes such as two asados, meats (beef or pork), prepared in a red “colorado” or green “pasado” sauce, each featuring chilies of the same names flavored with herbs, and cumin. They’re served either as a main dish or as burritos, the filling wrapped in a long wheat tortilla. Caldillo Norteño is a revitalizing beef broth stocked with shreds of both machaca (air-dried beef) and fresh meat, and cubes of potatoes. The sopa de tortilla is fragrant with cumin and served with chicharrón (fried pork skin), avocado slices, and roast chili strips. The owner insisted I try his frijoles norteñas, warning me that they take time to prepare. They’re worth the wait; saucy dark beans are garnished with chunks of pungent warm Chihuahua cheese, and dried toasted chilies. This could be eaten alone as a hearty soup course. Pechuga de pollo Norteña is a generous slab of grilled chicken breast, slathered with a delightfully complex roasted chili sauce and topped with grilled Chihuahua cheese. If this all sounds too carnivorous, there are several salads on the menu as well, and cheese burritos can be prepared – you still get to sample the excellent salsas (watch out for the green one – it’s not as harmless as it appears).
The lemonade is worth mentioning as it’s particularly rich and not too sweet. The desserts, not on the menu, are exceptional – try the flan baked in a mezcal sauce, or a thin slab of ate de membrillo (quince jelly). Be sure to ask for a sample of their house mezcal – one special bottle contains an entire rattlesnake, for those on a dare.

Prices are reasonable here, but be aware that credit cards are not accepted.

La Toma de Tequila

Toluca 28-C (at Baja California) Colonia Roma

Metro Centro Médico (use the “Toluca” exit)

Tel. 5584 5250

Open 1PM – 8PM Daily
Prices range from $150-250 pesos per person including a drink.

This article was previously printed in part in The News Mexico City