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| The essential cemita |
The most exciting thing that’s going on resto-gastronomy
wise here in the capital isn’t fusion, isn’t so-called cocina del autor. It’s the back-to-basics celebration of tradition.
Remember when Rosemary Clooney stopped trying to make the hit parade and recorded
a series of jazz/standard albums, continuing to do so for the next 30 years? (Well
I do.) Traditions are deep-rooted, trends evaporate. New venues that pay homage
to the past are opening and that’s a good thing.
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| Angelpolitano |
So it’s with open arms that we welcome the latest house of
mirth, the tongue-twistingly named Angelopolitano. Housed in the shell of an
old residence on the hipster-free Roma/Condesa border, this smartly appointed
but unpretentious establishment offers Poblano cooking with a modern touch. By
that I mean that generations-old, family-tested recipes are artfully prepared.
Young Puebla-born chef Gerardo Quezadas respects grandma’s
wise ways. He freshens flavors and presentation, bringing his food into the 21st
century while maintaining the integrity of the 19th, from which most
of these preparations emanate. Puebla, whose grandeur reached an apex during
the late colonial and early independent eras, is steeped in both the indigenous
and Euro styles. But lumbering sauces, laden with nuts, cream and a myriad of chilies
and spices can overwhelm the contemporary diner used to more fine-spun fare.
The menu at Angelopolitano is anchored in Puebla standards such
as mole, both the chocolaty poblano and the nutty verde varieties, but the
anchor isn’t stuck in the mud. There are also rich green and red pipianes, and that classic,
fruit-studded dish elusive to most D.F. menus, manchamanteles. And a few
more modern, creative dishes such as salmon with a mescal/tamarind/chipotle
sauce.
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| Chalupas |
Mole poblano is
emblematic of the area and perhaps Mexico itself (mas mexicano que mole is the local version of ‘as American as apple
pie’). But the amalgam of sugar, spices, seeds, chilies and chocolate, when
unbalanced, can mute the palate. This kitchen’s version, from “Godmother
Clotilda’s own 19th century recipe” is done right, no mean feat
given that over 30 ingredients need to be juggled. The same expertise is
brought to manchamanteles, once common
on bourgeois tables. Dried and fresh fruit sweeten a spiky but light
chili/tomato sauce and highlight the tender morsels of pork that rest in it.
Bravo.
Soups are excellent, the seasonal flor de calabaza shines: this
sunny flower’s delicate perfume is so often elusive – not here. And that most
standard sopa de tortilla is
exemplary –hearty and redolent of corn.
Cemitas, Puebla’s
version of the torta, are served on their eponymous and very fresh buns, dotted
with sesame seeds. That of mole verde
is the best I have sampled anywhere. Chicken bathed in this nut and green chili
based sauce is blanketed with shredded Oaxaca cheese and avocado. A hint of the
perfumy cilantro-like but distinct herb pápalo
can be detected. At $55 pesos, who’s complaining?
Also worth mentioning are the two pasteles, savory lasagna-like concoctions that should be on every
Mexican cooks to-do list. The champandongo
purposely resembles a chocolate layer cake. Tortillas are stacked with chicken,
mole, sweet cream and queso Oaxaca,
baked and ‘iced’ with more mole. The beautiful presentation turns the meal into
a birthday party.
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| The prize- winning chile en nogada |
And last but not least, chef Quezadas' chile en nogada, that quintessential independence day stuffed chili. is a feast for the eyes - winner hands down for the Miss Mexico prize.
The dining areas, two smaller at ground level and a larger,
older-fashioned space above, are light, airy and sleek – walls feature
contemporary black and white photos. But a welcoming old-time ambience
pervades. And the familiar feeling is reinforced by the fact that as a matter
of policy, the family employs people of the tercera
edad. So if you no longer have grandparents, you will be well taken care of
here by someone elses.
Prices at Angelopolitano are reasonable – a light lunch can
be had for under $130, a complete dinner with drinks will average $250. Pesos
that is.
While the restaurant scene in Puebla itself has exploded in
recent years, making our neighbor a worthy culinary travel destination, el D.F.
itself suffers a dearth of good restaurants featuring this important regional
cuisine. Angelopolitano fills the gap.
Angelopolitano
Puebla 371, near the corner of Sonora
Colonia Roma Norte
Tel. 6391-2121 / 6391-2020
Open Tuesday – Thursday 1 – 10 p.m.
Friday, Saturday 1 – 11 p.m., Sunday until 7 p.m.
Closed Monday